Very nice , an existing build ? or the new one.
It looks very short ?
Paul
Very nice , an existing build ? or the new one.
For option 1, why do the swingarms need to be mirrored instead of facing the same direction? So like option two, but with single sided arms, both on one side.
The intermediate gearbox shown is installed in the CargoQuad.Very nice , an existing build ? or the new one.
DanPaul,
Here is what we were discussing today. The same as Lotharko's jackshaft and freewheel(s) here is how it would work for you.
This is the man who is building a 4wd + 4WS quad ? getting cold feet ?I have no idea how much this will affect matters but the more that is going to rotate on freewheeling then the poorer it will coast. The drawing above has the wheels driving two chains and two shafts. If you've ever tried to push a Land Rover (you can't!) you'll know what I mean. Less freewheeling equals more pedalling. The effect may be negligible or it may be important - I don't know.
You mean option1 ?Logic says that you have a perfectly good freewheel diff system with 2x fixies and 2x freewheels. You'd be saying no to this for a more complex system that works on exactly the same principle. In such a case even the "because I can" argument deflates somewhat.
Too late!ps don't let DannyC see this !
1 or 2. Both work as a free wheel diff. No need to add snother diff on the jackshaft.You mean option1 ?
Yes , it was the side loading I was worried about mainlyDo I understand you wright, you are using the large core plug and bearing to stop the freewheel unscrewing itself?
I can't see why it wouldn't work.
TrueThe bearing cap / core plug would need to be made so it just contacted the freewheel when tightened up. The downside is the axle is then mounted further from the plane of the tyre meaning more leverage on the axle. Use as thin a bearing as you can find and I'd expect you'd get away with it from that point of view.
useful adviceBut, the bearing itself is going to take some substantial side loading. Most std bearings aren't going to take such loadings so you'll probably need a taper roller bearing which are designed to take side loadings.
Yes true, just a though I am a long way from needing this part to work , in fact I have just screwed it on for the time being , it will allow me to align stuff although I won't be able to put any load on it.Don't forget to either space the other wheel off a similar amount or alter the chassis to compensate for the difference.
OR, use an annular contact bearing they are built for side/end on-loads too. Used in Lathes and milling machines.useful advice