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I just turn and mill a fitting expanding mandrell and a slide hammer.

Escher rules.

It's how I adapted "normal" Novatech 12mm Tru Axle hubs to fit the front dropout axles on my trike. Just replaced the 6001 2RS bearings with the 6902 2RS bearings I'm rolling on for 6000km now.

6001 bearings are 12x28x8. 6902 bearings are 15x28x7 With a 1mm thin shim, the 6902 can directly replace the 6001.

The plans, or the finished product?

Brazing or Oxy Acy seems the safest bet. Or even Oxy-hydrogen.

I regulary drill titanium and AR sheet. Not a cheap thing. But I use full carbite drills and a very rigid mounting.

Titanium and steel can't be welded. Also, titanium is a bad material for such an application.

Maybe, if you use the right alloy, the right welding technique and the right -large size- tubing, you can do it. But the weight savings will be minimal.

How did you get a suitable aluminium frame? But the other parts, that's just gathering and mounting. And I guess, you would have equal, or even more fun with Emiels Quad.

If you build a Streetfox in aluminium , with the tubes/box section correctly oversized, you would have a 15% weight advantage . But the more expensive way of building, would end up with a simular, or even higher pricetag than a premium brand tadpool with the same capabilities.

Thank you

I have 1 "home build" slide hammer based on a vise grip, and 1 cheapo set from HBM

Actualy, in the spirit of Atomic zombie, I would suggest rewinding a series wound starter motor as a parallel wound. Any decent car-scrapper can yield a few fun motors in that respect.

Why use a bike motor? There are other options. MY1020 for example.

I tought Hase used a 16" front wheel for their deltas. But I would stay away from that small a wheel for a Tadpool. Hmm, I wonder why non of the Trike building firms didn't do a reverse wheelsize , as the front wheels have to soak up more of the bumps and curbs. My Grey Ghost does have...

Point. Balloon tyres are bigger in diameter. But still, 406mm is 16". And I just measured my 20" wheel, it sounds right that the bead is the measurment used.

I know, but the 20" of a tyre is the running surface , not the flanges of the hub/rim/whatsoever.

406mm is also 16".

The front forks are not inclined. Makes for a very very nervous driving experience. Reminds me of the old days, with mopeds (damn, thats 35 years ago for me now). A lot of boys fitted longer rear shocks on their "Honda Camino", changing the angle of the headset. It made the steering...