Aluminum framed fat tire beach quad with lots of storage capacity.

Still, I would choose for steel.
Because of where I live steel rusts horribly quickly. I ride a bike on the beach almost every day for work so I have a lot of experience with this. Rust resistance is primary, weight is not as important.
 
As you use bolds, use tight tolerances. Also, use thick plates that hold the aluminium tubes together. This lowers the risk that you get a moving frame.

Still I would use steel and just improve the protection layer.
 
If rust is that big a problem, and weight ain't, stainless steel works too. And as I already wrote, titanium is viable. Expensive, but does everything, and a tad more;
 
If rust is that big a problem, and weight ain't, stainless steel works too. And as I already wrote, titanium is viable. Expensive, but does everything, and a tad more;
Stainless is an option , yes, if I use the really good stuff. I have much more experience with aluminum and I have some of it already. I’m not building an sr71 so titanium isn’t something I’m the least bit capable of. Maybe on my 10 th design I’ll try it!
 
I know it doesn’t make complete sense to anyone but me at this time but I really like this this regen ability.
 
Here i
I know it doesn’t make complete sense to anyone but me at this time but I really like this this regen ability.

For regen it isn't that interesting. It doesn't bring much especially as you ride trough sand that slows you fast down as you stop pedaling.
As you turn on regen, you also turn on break assist. This makes that you even faster stop as you hit the breaks. For that is my use.
 
Looks promising, and a healthy amount of ideas flying! 👍
Personally I will keep an eye on the belt drive evolution.
Nice canoe builds - Have you considered making the quad using the same tech?
There is/were a guy in Germany (I think it was) who had built frames with wood and epoxi.
 
Last day of the year update. Lots of good ideas here. I found two new identical fat bikes as donor bikes with 26”x4.0 on 80mm rims. then thinking I can just catamaran the two bikes together. This is a whole different design but the same mission.
I’ll start a new topic/thread for this.
 
Last day of the year update. Lots of good ideas here. I found two new identical fat bikes as donor bikes with 26”x4.0 on 80mm rims. then thinking I can just catamaran the two bikes together. This is a whole different design but the same mission.
I’ll start a new topic/thread for this.

I think you are talking about this ?

Idea #1 post #130 onwards

DSCF6382-sm.jpg


Idea #2 post #145 onwards

DSCF6429-sm-lines.jpg


Couple of thinks I found:-
a) to long for my needs i.e not fit in car
b) large turning circle
c) lots of extra metal needed
d) hard for rider to mount with a low seat i.e recumbent
e) steering + feet try to occupy same space

YMMV Paul
 
I think you are talking about this ?

Idea #1 post #130 onwards

DSCF6382-sm.jpg


Idea #2 post #145 onwards

DSCF6429-sm-lines.jpg


Couple of thinks I found:-
a) to long for my needs i.e not fit in car
b) large turning circle
c) lots of extra metal needed
d) hard for rider to mount with a low seat i.e recumbent
e) steering + feet try to occupy same space

YMMV Paul
Yup. This is what I’m thinking. Sure, it’s not ideal, has its limitations, but for my initial use will be fine. There are a couple of mounting methods I could use but it’s the drive train that has me wondering. I can use the rear cassettes but need some kind of axle to span both rear wheels.
 
There are a couple of mounting methods I could use but it’s the drive train that has me wondering. I can use the rear cassettes but need some kind of axle to span both rear wheels.
Remove both the cassettes and replace them with either a fixie single sprocket or a single speed freewheel.
Add chains going forward to a jack-shaft the width of the 2 frames in the centre of the jack-shaft is a single cassette and at the ends with a freewheel if the rear wheel has a fixie single speed or a fixie single speed if the wheels have free wheels.
I was hoping to build this into the 2 BB's , however I think aligning the frames for that option is beyond our engineering skills , instead find a tube a good fit for the insides on the BB shell and start joining them by clamping front and back parallel then weld this tube in.
Jack-shaft can be hung on to brackets just in front of the BB's , not forgetting you need clearance for a rear mech !

Paul

ps I did not build either of the examples as IMHO they were dead ends in a path to achieve what [ I though ] at the time I wanted ;)
 
I'd build the jackshaft across the bottom bracket by using two steel cranks for the square taper and a tube welded between them. Fitting the bottom bracket that fits from the outside will tighten it on. It wouldn't need to be particularly tight like a crank arm would as being trapped it has nowhere to go to come undone. That little bit of slack would accommodate any misalignment. Use a tube in the shells to align the frames but remove it when joined to leave the shells functional for the bottom brackets.
 
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