Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

As you connect them togheter, do you only need to connect the signal wires together?

No. I'm mainly referring to the two motors and getting them to work as a pair. Everything else will come off from the 48v to 12v converter that sits behind the battery.
Found an intermittent short in the key switch. Bypassed the switch with a shunt and all works as designed.

I do have an issue with one of the gears, however. The chain 'clunks' once in a while. I found the teeth on that gear aren't really wide enough for a T8F chain. So I'll be looking to replace it. The trouble is it was a special order and had to come from England. I'm hoping to find something a wee bit closer this time.
Did you have the calliper fully bolted up during that? It gives a fair bit with the disc wobble. The inboard drive sprocket has a fair bit of eccentricity too. There's many a time I've tried to make my own alignment on sprockets and I know it's a tough old ask to get 100% when you haven't got that perfectly lathe machined piece to make it happen.
Did you have the calliper fully bolted up during that? It gives a fair bit with the disc wobble. The inboard drive sprocket has a fair bit of eccentricity too. There's many a time I've tried to make my own alignment on sprockets and I know it's a tough old ask to get 100% when you haven't got that perfectly lathe machined piece to make it happen.

:) Yes to all that. These calipers seem to have a design that allows them to move within the bracket. At least that is what I have reasoned.

I do have more work to do to get things better aligned. Now that I've been able to get it to move, I am able to see what needs to be done to try and improve on alignment issues.

Just came in from looking into how I will connect the wiring. Ran another slow-mo and one of my tack welds broke.
So I've got some repairing and finish welding to do.

The eccentric movement has allows been a concern, and hard to achieve with rudimentary equipment and expertise. But I think in this case it will be safe to allow it as is. I must put more thought into how to jig up to achieve a better center point. My latest thought is to weld in a 'fill-in center' and then redrill out. Hopefully achieving a more accurate center.

That particular gear should be spot on. It was specially ordered with a 3/4 bore. All I did was weld on the shaft collar. Why it is running off is a question for sure?
Repair made and beefed up as well.

Drilled out sprocket center hole to accommodate the shaft collar.

Verified the distance all around the outside and did an eccentric spin test. All is as close as I will ever get it.

There is another shaft collar welded on the other side. Shouldn't break apart anymore.

Wiring sorted out and connected.


A slow function test. Don't pay any attention to 'loose things', that's next.

For now, I have successfully made both motors obey. March in the same direction at the same time...😀

Time sure does fly by.
Guess it's time for a little update.

My swamp cooler update/install has really helped. I have been able to spend at least 4 hours a day working in my shop.
The average temp in the shop has been 82-86 (F). I can deal with that because it's a 'cool' 82.
Outside has been averaging 102-105ish.

The major step forward is I have full power forward and backward.
Did a three-foot drive with full body and my person on board.
The two motors didn't show any sign of strain.

I've been working steadily on getting the rear brakes, and gears to cooperate with each other.
Have had them installed and removed and reinstalled numerous times.
Chain tension has been a major issue.
Today I think I finally achieved rapport and tomorrow will be ...BRAKE FLUID DAY. Yay!!!
My better half has agreed to be the brake pedal pusher. Let's hope all goes well.

The hoist has been a back and knee saver.

Here you can see how it works with installing the body.

Pushing the chassis under the body.

If all goes well with the brake bleed operation tomorrow, I will be able to take it out for a road(yard) test.
I'm going to start with a conventional brake bleed procedure.
If there is a considerable problem with that, I will get a brake bleed kit...maybe.
I have looked into the use of mineral oil vs DOT4.
Can't see any advantage in using either one for my particular application.

One snafu. I hooked up the charger to the battery just to see.
I didn't need to as the battery has only lost about 1.5 volts in the last year.
Well, I guess I did something wrong as the charger popped and sparked after about a couple of minutes.
So now I'm trying to contact my supplier to get it fixed or buy another charger.
you mentioned an inverter for 12 volts? what and where?

I will be using a converter to bring the 48 volts down to 12 volts.
I plan on (maybe) registering it as a NEV, so things like lights horn, turn signals, gauges, etc. need to work.
It will be located between the battery and the firewall.

I am searching for a battery level meter for 48v LiPo battery
never realized a lead acid battery meter won't work on LIPO battery
I guess an well trained arduino and a good made shunt can do the trick. On the other hand, it will take some tweaking to get the data and readouts right.
Most battery indicators are just glorified voltage meters.

LiPo (and LiFePo4) react different under load compared to lead acid. For an accurate readout, you need to run some tests with a new pack, and digest the raw data after 10 or 15 cycles to know the capacity of the pack and then program the limits.
For longevity, you want the pack cycling between 20 and 80% of charge.
Today's brake bleed went ok. Not real impressed with the results yet. Front or back.
Not sure if they are fully bled. I got them to a point where the fluid came out, in full.
I was able to get all four calipers bled, but the rear calipers need more adjustment.
I was able to get one rear side working, though it seems like there wasn't enough stopping power.
And I wonder if the front discs are too small ????

The problem is I don't really understand how to adjust the rears.
The adjusting screw that is used for the parking brake arm is what makes the adjustment.
I see how it works for actuating the parking brake, and for moving the piston. But am unsure how it works to adjust the pads.
Been scouring the internet to find my type caliper with some instructions on how to make adjustments, but haven't had any luck.

The front brakes seem to be working, but yet again I'm not so sure they are working up to their full capabilities.

I'll be back on it tomorrow. I'm so close to a test drive I can't give up now.
The easy way to bleed brakes is with two people or using a large syringe and reverse blead the system.
Disc size shouldn't matter until the wheel is actually rotating for whooo power.
Reverse bleed is really easy, youtube is your friend.
good luck
I have a pressure bleeder for car systems. Just open the nipple and let it come out.

Having a good night's rest and time to reflect upon yesterday's results, has provided better results this morning.

The brakes are working fine. Because there was no place to sit, we were using hand pressure to activate the brakes.
This morning I put foot power to them and voila!, they work just fine. The simplest things ...right?

With that problem solved, for now, I was going to drive test it. I put the body back on and did a back and forth in the shop.
I still have far too much chain noise. So much so I didn't want to take it out and damage something. So off came the body and hand-rolling back and forth I am getting the following

Chain operation from the motor to the 24T sprocket.
  • Tight then loose chain tension. (Like there is a concentric effect going on)
  • The chain acts like it is catching on the teeth.
What I discovered was that the 24T gear I got from the UK, isn't wide enough. It is about half the width it should be.
None of the other gears make any noise (almost).

So I'm back looking for someone that has a T8F chain size gear (24Tx3/4 bore).
Or someone that can make me one. It has to be 24T to keep the gear ratios the same.
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