Quad pedal race car - refurbish and improvement [ I hope ]

undertoad said:
Once you figure out how many, you could just line them up and put a spot weld on the edge of the stack to hold them.
That frame is such a mess, that you must be at the point of wondering if it would be best to start new :unsure:
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Yes building a new one and use the old one as design is Maybe the best way. But fixing an old frame has also something.
Sometimes, the fixing of and old frame is more fun than building a new one.
 
undertoad
That frame is such a mess, that you must be at the point of wondering if it would be best to start new.
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The number of times I have been told that :((y)
Emiel
Yes building a new one and use the old one as design is Maybe the best way.
see above
But fixing an old frame has also something. Sometimes, the fixing of and old frame is more fun than building a new one. (y)(y)(y)(y)

My stubbornness has been something of an issue in my rants on this forum in the past.
I did feel some fondness for the car [ early on ] and it certainly has some history as a race car I was trying to preserve.
However my patience with it is running out and I am beginning to think my time could have been spent more profitably ?

Building a new one is tricky , I am not that in love with this design that I would want to use it as a template to build a new one.
However I do not have any design I think is better and would want to build either.

So as they say ' until something better comes along .....'

Paul
 
Paul knows that my view is to cut the back-end off and make just a new back-end and weld that to the rest of the frame.
I think this would count as "a sympathetic restoration". ;-)
 
DannyC said:
I think this would count as "a sympathetic restoration"
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A "resto-mod" - Kind of like building a hot rod, where the only thing original looking is the body, and everything underneath is updated ?
I do admire Paul's fortitude with this project - I think mine would have run out by now.
Maybe why I have a shameful list of unfinished ones ......
 
So a chat with DannyC over a way forward with 1 wheel drive [ why not they all started like that ] resulted in an envelope with the results of a test for DannyC's new lathe:-

parts-DSCF8179.jpg


So I need to weld top right on top of top left and I was presented with part front middle :-

assembled-DSCF8181.jpg


I can now clamp the 2 parts in alignment and cautiously weld them together.

This will give me a screw on freewheel adaptor that can be clamped to the M17 half shaft.

This will be REAL progress I assure you ....

Paul
 
.. and we attempt to weld !
weld-setup-DSCF8183.jpg


Certain nervousness as I can't find my amp/thickness chart and I am conscious I only have one go at this .....

weld-setup-DSCF8185.jpg


Still I was nicely set up for the welds 3 to avoid the grub screw holes so I must be learning something !
Oh apart from being much to close to the garage door and catching a 1/2 length filler rod in the door mechanism , that threw me when it would not move smoothly !

welded-DSCF8186.jpg


Did not initially dawn on me how little weld area I would have on the top of the BB cup , maybe less than 3mm @ 105amps+ is exciting

Not pretty however I am happy with them as far as I can tell , much to hot to touch at present :D(y)

Paul
 
That was some nice lathe work on Danny's part - Good job! You're fortunate to have a friend like that nearby.
And those welds are probably a lot stronger than you think.
I've made small tack welds, then decided to change something, and then cut away most of the weld.
It's amazing how much force is often then needed to physically break the remaining part of the welds.
 
undertoad said:
That was some nice lathe work on Danny's part - Good job! You're fortunate to have a friend like that nearby.
And those welds are probably a lot stronger than you think.
I've made small tack welds, then decided to change something, and then cut away most of the weld.
It's amazing how much force is often then needed to physically break the remaining part of the welds.
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Thank you. Sadly, I am not local to Paul as I am 166 miles from Mansfield and so we have to employ postal/courier services to send/receive stuff.
 
undertoad said:
That was some nice lathe work on Danny's part - Good job! You're fortunate to have a friend like that nearby.
Click to expand...
Yes I good friend especially as I did not ask for this , it was just one of the options discussed whilst musing over how to do it.
However the sad part is he is not nearby by a long shot 170+ miles away so we don't meet as often as we would like , he is so frustrated not being able to come up and kick the car , if it had been smaller I would have sent it him before Xmas just to get it out from under my feet for a bit.

And those welds are probably a lot stronger than you think.
I've made small tack welds, then decided to change something, and then cut away most of the weld.
It's amazing how much force is often then needed to physically break the remaining part of the welds.
Click to expand...

Always a little worried as anything that has fluctuating stress on it will cause problems where there is a change in cross section as can be seen where the welds end. Still easy enough to add more weld however a failure could well mean being rescued.

Paul
 
stormbird said:
a failure could well mean being rescued.
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That means that you'll need to inspect it regularly - I doubt it would fail all of a sudden, but would probably show cracking, before it went.
If you think how those welds are taking the strain, it's in a lateral direction - In shear. Of course, anything can be broken, if enough power is put through it, but it would take a lot of force to rip those welds off sideways.
So, if you can restrain yourself from showing off with those start line burn-outs, it'll likely last.
 
So having dropped the 2WD requirement we can move forwards at last.[ a boring thread here relates why Self aligning bearing problems ]

1-rear-mech-mount-DSCF8204.jpg


So this is a 7 speed cassette mounted on a Samagaga half shaft and clamped to the rear x-member is the start of a rear mech mount.

rear-mech-1.jpg
rear-mech-2.jpg


This is Jes actual one for the R cars , mine will be a mirror as my axle is behind the x-member and the R cars have it in front of the x-member .
I need to mark and drill the 2 holes unseen under the clamp then I can project a line from the centre of the axle on the vertical face and drill and fix this adaptor on.

Then I need a caliper mount for the drive side ...

1-disc-mount-left-DSCF8201.jpg


Clamped again another bracket for the rear near side caliper , 2 more holes need drilling once I have the vertical face of this bracket parallel with the rotor.

Both brackets need surplus material shaving off them before they are fixed for good.

Paul
 
Crawling forward :-

1-new-part-DSCF8219.jpg


Composite picture in the back ground is what I am aiming for [ sorry bit bigger than life size ] the silver hanger.
Mine is top left , needs some trimming but should work for testing
Front right what I found on it as you can see on the edge ! size wise , screw fixings wise etc

1-new-part-DSCF8228.jpg


Some of the fat marked for trimming off , stills needs one bolt hole drilling for mounting to rear x member.

1-new-part-DSCF8231.jpg


That bolt needs counter sinking to stop chain interference otherwise ?
Does it work that's the question.....

Paul
 
Yes - You already have a hole in the bracket, so just cut the head of a bolt off, and rosette weld from the sprocket side.
No weld fillet on the inside then.
 
Above piece needs trimming to clear rear mech and remove bloat , so marked out :-

before-trimming-DSCF8232.jpg

OK it was quicker to counter sink the holes and add 2 bolts .....

trimmed-DSCF8236.jpg


Of course I grabbed 2 new M6 bolts put them in from the back counter sunk side added nuts to figure out where to shortened them , cleaned them up added bolted it up turned it over to admire my handy work only to find one was a hex head and one a cross point grrrrrrr , could this car just for once stop kicking me in the nuts every time I try to make it better ? (n)(n)(n)

More to come just have not got the pictures to support adding a chain ......

Paul
 
So realised I could finish off the seat mount now I think I have finished drill holes and shortening bolts :-

welded-rear-seat-mounts-DSCF8254.jpg


So these 2 parts welded on , except for the one nearest the camera the lower side facing the camera I don't think the torch can reach it.
If not I will make a right angled bracket and weld it underneath over the join and where I can reach it further up the support.

final-upper-seat-back-DSCF8261.jpg


This is the last piece where the upper seat bolts go , when I decide where the seat needs to be.
I have to attempt to get the centre line of the seat in the middle of the car , that will not be easy.

Still you can briefly admire the new rear mech bracket , lets hope it works.

Paul
 
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