Warrior build UK

Dale Rider

New member
Metal cut.
Sorted drawing and dimensions.
Wanted a safe set of accurate steering heads out of EN16 (tough stuff!!)
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Very nice, what Warco(?) model mill is it?
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Hi Danny,
It's a Warco WM 16B milling machine with DRO and power feed, but I have not attached the power feed yet.
The DRO is worth it as you can find 'centres' easily, drill PCD and 2.1/2D mill, not quite 3D Mill and 'log' so many reference points to work from.

There's a Shuablin at the side of it too. Still waiting for a paint job.
 
Very nice, what Warco(?) model mill is it?
Hi Danny,
It's a Warco WM 16B milling machine with DRO and power feed, but I have not attached the power feed yet.
The DRO is worth it as you can find 'centres' easily, drill PCD and 2.1/2D mill, not quite 3D Mill and 'log' so many reference points to work from.

There's a Shuablin at the side of it too. Still waiting for a paint job.
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That's a nice sounding machine. :) I thought Schaublin's were pretty rare beasts. Lucky man.
 
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warrior-vers.png

Ok, slight pause while a skewered finger mends so reporting on the Warrior design as it has things to consider and needs enlightenment.
First picture shows the Warrior as depicted in the plans but with wheels on at 5" ground clearance.
Note you need to decide how to get the front wheel axles connected to the frame, either a upward tilt of the front steering arms (watch those angles) or lift the ground clearance as I am doing.
The yellow line show ground clearance raised to 7.5", this will allow easy connection of the front wheels.

I was going to 3D print a 1/4 scale model of the Warrior to do a final check but I saw other 'ponderments'.
My intentions are to weld the steering arms to the central angled section first, flat, with tubes on at 90° in one plane and 10° in the other.
The central angled section going from 5" to 11" or 7.5" to 13.5" will be 13.34°. Those steering tube will be at 76.66° (castor angle) or there abouts.
Advise for the angle to be 80° (AZ) and 78° (Hell Bent). Not far out but why not make a small change that will (13.34° to 10°~12°) make the caster angle possible?

The next set of 3 pictures is the 3D drawing. First one 7.5" ground clearance. Middle rotated. Last one back to the 5" GC.
Saw other slight issues but nothing to worry about, 3D cad is good at showing, 'what you're going to get'.
Saves, recuts and swearing. BTW I machine the ends of the tubes as then everything is predictable.
Definitely over kill to you guys, but normal engineering practise to me, 53 years in the industry.

More to follow as my hand heals.
Martin
 
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When I got the plans, I also made a 3D model an noticed that some dimensions where off.
But that is no problem.
You can change some angles a bit and that will solve the problem. The 20 degree angle, can also be 18 degree to lower the front, so the wheels will fit. You can also play with other dimensions.

Follow the plans and it will be fine. Maybe you need to change some angles a bit, but don't worry about it.

Only thing that I should do, is make a triangle ad the back. The back of the seat that is connected to the u shape for the rear wheel, is a weak point. Make a triangle there and tgsg is solved.
Some people have problems with the arms where they are connected to the frame.
You can Welt a plate on to and bottom to make that stronger.

Don't worry about the dimensions to much.

An other thing, keep it a 5 inch.
As you go higher, than you will roll faster in corners.
How fast a Trike rolles over, is determined by a few things.
The hight of the center of gravity, the location of the center of gravity compared to the front wheels and the tires you use.
Afcourse also by the cornering speed, but you get more cornering speed as you build it right.
And I can tell you, cornering with a Trike is great as it is stable.
 
An other thing, keep it a 5 inch.
Great advise Emiel, especially the 5". My latest rendition has made this nearly 230mm, but I may move to plan B (or is that plan F by now)!
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Note, no seat, no head rest post, which will have to be extended and no gussets for strengthening.
Shall have a cup of tea and consider the lowering aspect or consign that to another build later.
I have enough metal to create off-springs!
Did think of an intermediate plate between the steering heads and arms.
This would isolate the 10° angle (steering axis to the bottom of the wheel) and the trail angle, which I would like to be able to adjust to see the effect.
Now I've done the end view, I'm scratching my head.
Be back shortly, with 'I've welded it all up', or more picture puzzles.
Martin
 
Well, I redrew it with 127mm GC.
(that was quick), Yep I'm a dab hand at CAD.
The arms are presented at awful angles. OK I know, jig it up and aim at points and fits, (cut and shut).
But I want to make this simple for peps, not just me.
Ah well....

Looks better for, heel and calf clearance though.
Wheel base went from 1018mm to 1080mm, doh! I wanted it short... Not much to give up I suppose.
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Just consulting my engineering books. I'm thinking those angle will put more 'turning' stress on those welds!!!
I'll just see by how much, think it will be 30% more, just a guess. So, definitely beef up.
 
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Here is the solution. A 3d printed marking, cutting and tacking jig.
A bit more tweaking to reduce filament and then print a LH and RH version tomorrow
Beginning to smell the Argon already. (Who said it's odourless).
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It's going to take more time to make the stuff to make the trike, than to make the trike. There are a bunch of jigs on the different posts about warriors on this site, if you haven't read them it might same you some time, you have time to kill while they print.
 
Not really Thom_G, While printing I will be getting on with other things.
What I do find time consuming is searching and reading all the previous posts.
I can discover more my way and make it easy to produce more of the same as it's a path I've trodden.
Jigs are always good in engineering you get accuracy and repeatability.
But as Thom_G suggests, not every ones cup-of-tea route. (I'm just guinea pigging it)
 
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Just checking brake hubs, mounted on steering arm leg, yesterday.
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Arm jig is nearly ready and I've figured out a new arm design to eliminate the extreme angles, ;) stomybuzzard:sneaky:.
 
Just checking brake hubs, mounted on steering arm leg, yesterday.
DSC04531.jpg

Arm jig is nearly ready and I've figured out a new arm design to eliminate the extreme angles, ;) stomybuzzard:sneaky:.
Hi Dale, how have you "pinned" the backplate so it cannot rotate, and is there sufficient clearance for the cable and the operating arm's travel? I cannot see from the pictures above. :D
 
Danny asked...Hi Dale, how have you "pinned" the backplate so it cannot rotate, and is there sufficient clearance for the cable and the operating arm's travel? I cannot see from the pictures above.

That's what I was checking, also put the assy in a lathe to check dimensions. Looks tight couple of milli daylight showing.
I left the sides square so to be able to choose mounting faces etc.
Cheers Danny.
BTW, I've designed passed this generation/model and done away with the 'old bike' steering heads.
Looks commercial quality, also height ride adjustable along with, ability to change angles.
I will continue with this build to the end though.
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Gosh the lathe looks dirty in this picture, must get the brasso out!
Martin
 
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