DIY battery

Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
1,107
Location
Netherlands
Charging my battery now.
I can see it on my phone and keep an eye on it.
Only need to ad shrink wrap and it is ready.
Friday it will probably get his first test on my e-bike.
Trike will follow as the mount is ready.
 
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
1,107
Location
Netherlands
My battery is finished and all charged up.
I connected it, to the bike and noting blew up, so everything is OK.
Now I can use it Friday on my city bike, to ride to Eindhoven and back in the highest mode, without looking if I will make it all the way. 😁

No I go and see where it comes on my trike, so I can cut the parts and weld it.
 
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
1,107
Location
Netherlands
Fantastic progress.
Mine are in their box 😂
It took a while before I got mine finally build. I ordered the bms 9 months ago with the nice strips and spot welder. I bought an other spot welder a few weeks ago.

My next battery will take same time before I start with that one.
I have now 1677,6WH in total ad the moment. So I can ride long distances without any problem.
Fiets finish my bike and camper. After that, I start building the battery as I can traffel outside the Netherlands.
 
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
1,107
Location
Netherlands
My first ride with my new battery was a success.
Range is almost double from that from my other battery. I can ride full power and as I stay arou d 20km/h the range will be even longer, but now I can ride about 90km with speeds up to 35km/h, what drains the battery faster than as I ride 20.
Also, because of the size, I didn't feel any power loss today.
This was on my city bike with my tsdz2 250w motor. It uses a lot more as I go above the 25km/h.

I know now that I can come close to 200km on my trike with the settings I use now.
Speed will be lower, but with the camper, I want to reach about 100km on one battery and how it looks now, that will be no problem.

So happy and a second one will follow.
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
51
Location
eire
Finally got this project complete. Have taken my first two rides with the TSDZ2 (250W). Using the lowest setting and occasional boosts it barely made a dent in my 12Ah battery over a 6mile run. Will hopefully take it out for a longer run tomorrow to get a better feel for the range.

Find that the motor introduces a small bit of drag when not on so makes the bike less versatile and wouldn't like to get stuck with no battery charge a long way from home. Also need to work out a way of getting a functional front derailleur for the twin front cog.

Shoog
 
Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
1,107
Location
Netherlands
On the lowest setting, you get a very good range. You can ride without an Battery, I did it, but yes it is a bit heavier.
I did several runs and looked ad the range in all modes. This gave me an estimate of the range I could get. Thus way, I would never end with an empty battery.
 
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
Messages
104
Finally got this project complete. Have taken my first two rides with the TSDZ2 (250W). Using the lowest setting and occasional boosts it barely made a dent in my 12Ah battery over a 6mile run. Will hopefully take it out for a longer run tomorrow to get a better feel for the range.

Find that the motor introduces a small bit of drag when not on so makes the bike less versatile and wouldn't like to get stuck with no battery charge a long way from home. Also need to work out a way of getting a functional front derailleur for the twin front cog.

Shoog
If you really want to test how many miles you can get out of a full charge, trek around your neighborhood in mile long laps until it runs out.
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
51
Location
eire
Finally got my front twin cog setup with a derailleur. Needed to get a derailleur adapter mount with a fat bike spacer to get the reach, these are expensive and hard to get. Was a bit of a bugger to setup. Discovered that the outer ring of the two ring kit has a slight outward cup to it which should be bowing outwards judging by the lumps on the inner face (to assist derailling) but when configured in this way the spacing between the cogs is about 8mm and not the required 5mm, as a consequence the chain wouldn't skip down and coasted on the side of the big cog. I had to turn the big cog around so the dish is facing inwards, in this configuration the spacing is 5mm and the chain changes down smoothly.
Nice to have a working front derailleur.

Shoog
 
Joined
May 28, 2013
Messages
120
Location
Ottawa
Find that the motor introduces a small bit of drag when not on so makes the bike less versatile and wouldn't like to get stuck with no battery charge a long way from home. Also need to work out a way of getting a functional front derailleur for the twin front cog.

Shoog
If you have a direct drive motor, the Grin Technologies Phaserunner and Baserunner controllers have a virtual freewheel function to eliminate that drag when things are powered up, but not providing assist. If you have regen, you should be able to recover most of that. Just be advised if you go that route their support is not speedy - covid and possibly becoming victims of success. (I am waiting upwards of a week for answers from them, which for someone used to providing enterprise grade 4 hour or less response times is frustrating. I get a day two days, but a week??? More whiskey is needed...)
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
51
Location
eire
I am a bit gutted today. I ordered a pair of 6V lights because I had the speed sensor splitter cable and wanted to get some dash controlled lights. They arrived today and I installed them. Very neat job overall and I was very happy for about 10mins.
The rear light has three leads and one is yellow which is indicated for use if your bike can supply 3Watts of light power. Info on this is sketchy but I decided to give it a punt, there was a nice boost in light output from the rear. However about 10mins later both lights went out and there is no more voltage to the lights (just a residual). Seems that the lights drew to much power and burnt out a 6V voltage regulator in the motor. No way back from this one.
So there is almost no useful info on using this feature of the motor and there is very poor info on the wiring of this three wire back light, and there is no overload protection built into the motor on this supply line. So it seems I am back to square one with trying to generate a tidy 6V supply for my lights without butchering my battery housing.

As I said I am a bit gutted.

Shoog
 
Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
51
Location
eire
I have a nice little encapsulated one with a built in heatsink which I got for my original lights. Should be able to mount it somewhere on the frame without much hassle - but I need to then put an inline switch onto it which will be very clunky.
Its a real bummer that the built in regulator had no overload protection - very poor design especially if you then sell cables to tap into it.

Shoog
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Axedale, Victoria, Australia
Website
axerail.coffeecup.com
I'm using a buck regulator for my overloaded-by-gizmology build to drop the e-Assist 36V supply to 12V to provide power for multiple USB outlets (including a tablet and camera}, and my 12V running lights. Somewhat comforting when you can start a ride with 63% tablet charge and ending the ride with 100%.
 
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
3,197
Location
South Benfleet, Essex, England, UK
I'm using a buck regulator for my overloaded-by-gizmology build to drop the e-Assist 36V supply to 12V to provide power for multiple USB outlets (including a tablet and camera}, and my 12V running lights. Somewhat comforting when you can start a ride with 63% tablet charge and ending the ride with 100%.
I made one similar, and added a set of in/out fans to blow air across the heat-sinks. Also had one of those 2-wire DVM displays to show the 12v It was all dual fed with 2 buck convertors to split the load. :)
I worked very well, but I am ashamed of the 25w Motorbike MP3 player I had blasting away. Terribly bad manners to inflict my classical music choices on others. :(
 
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
869
Location
Axedale, Victoria, Australia
Website
axerail.coffeecup.com
I made one similar, and added a set of in/out fans to blow air across the heat-sinks. Also had one of those 2-wire DVM displays to show the 12v It was all dual fed with 2 buck convertors to split the load. :)
I worked very well, but I am ashamed of the 25w Motorbike MP3 player I had blasting away. Terribly bad manners to inflict my classical music choices on others. :(
I would take the classical music as a warning to get out of the way. Reminds me of a plan I had to have an MP3 player with train whistles for that very purpose. Should work well on a rail trail. Used one years ago to entertain kids.
 
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