Drypod 2

Joined
Oct 19, 2012
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Made a cover for the cargo area. It hinges at the front and holds down via it's own weight. It also stiffens the rear body somewhat. Getting the roof mounted proved more work than expected. After discarding an initial attempt I decided on a false rear body panel which the rear slots into with a rubber fastener in the middle to prevent the wind hauling it off. The front is on two press-studs per side. I have still to make the stow away slot under the bonnet. I'll try to finish the wiring to the front lights tomorrow. One good bit of news is I'd forgotten I'd used steel screws for the body during it's build and still have the nylon ones to go in after paint so that'll loose close on 1KG.:)







 
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Sep 16, 2018
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Is Coraplast as a roof no option?
I think that as you make a roof from coraplast that you can open to the back or side, will fit better with the design.
 
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That's interesting but I can't see an obvious way in and out. I tried initially to make a roof with the Thermhex which is a very similar weight to Coraplast but much stronger. I thought it looked awful being far too high. I wanted it to look somewhat lower and also decided I didn't want a fixed roof. I may at some point, once this is all up and running, investigate making a removable hard top from the Thermhex.
 
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He opens the side. I would also make that you can open the roof to make it easier yo get in and out.

With your build, I would make a roof that you can flip to the back or side.
 
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Had my first tentative ride with the body on today. This told me a few things...

  1. I need to reduce the steering ratio and that needs to happen via lengthening the bars on the inside rather than shortening the outside bit. The steering is too quick and heavy and the bars are too squashed to my thighs.
  2. The screen can be lowered about 3". I'll do this next time it comes off. No sense in having the drag of an unnecessarily tall screen.
  3. I need to insert a bent bar under the bonnet to create a little more clearance for the knees.


 
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Feb 7, 2008
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The bars are they not high enough to reach ? or will you have to drop the pivot mount and lengthen them ?

It's all exciting stuff.

Paul
 
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I'll lengthen them on the current pivot. They currently are at a level near where they'd be for uss but are tight to my body due to the restriction of the bodywork. I need both a slower ratio and to raise the grips to get more hand space around them so simply welding 6 inch or so on top of them ought to solve both issues.
 
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Popshot

Innovative method of entry [ about half way down page ]



1cv ?

paul
 
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Popshot

I wonder what your views were on the wooden chassis part of this build ?

At the beginning you expressed some concerns over it's stiffness ?

Still unsure how to build my delta , I figure this method may be worth a try if maybe I incorporated a spine down the centre that picked up the pedals and head tube.

That really seems like copying a standard delta but in wood so why bother ?

Well the flat plate base could be very good if you were after an enclosed/partially enclosed vehicle as that is harder to do on say a Aurora trike with a narrow main spine ?

Paul
 
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I'd not use stressed wood again. It twisted during building. That may have been my fault or not. My woodworking skills are poor. Maybe a better design would work better.
 
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