Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Sep 12, 2012
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Coping with tubing...aka, fishmouth/notching.

Started this morning with the chore of coping the tube ends.
Saw this on Youtube, and thought I would give it a try.
Seemed quite simple to me. Works pretty good for round tube.


I used a slightly different method. I'm using thin wall, compared to his.
I went straight for the 80 grit flap disc.
I had only 1/4" of material to remove, and then grind the ends round.
Quick and easy



Not to bad for a first try.



Orientation of the fishmouth is important. I laid the curved tubing on its side,
to ensure I would be cutting in the correct direction, each time.



Used my EMT pipe bender, on the floor this time, to form the front bar.
Total length of the bar is 4'. (39" between ends).
The long straight tube, is just for support, until I get the outside bows welded into place.



I have a gas problem....I'm out.

Had to take a quick trip down the road, about 5 miles, to get my tank refilled.
I have a 55 cf tank.The price has gone up, ( what hasn't ).
Paid $34.22 this time. A jump of about $5 bucks.

Now that I'm full of gas, I can proceed to completing the Oops modification.

Before I could continue with the top bows, I had to finish making the curve pieces, needed to correct the Oops.
They are also needed to support the outside bows, in the correct position.

In this photo, the two curved pieces look different. At least to me they do.
But, they are identical in shape, and position.
Will move the car outside in the morning, complete the welds,
and cut out the front two cross braces.

 
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Shop is way to hot..
to keep going, I can not.


At 12:15 pm it's already 104 F in my shop.

My goal for today was to get the top bows completed, and tack welded.
I have met my goal, but am feeling the effects from the heat.

Time to stay inside for awhile, post this update, drink some ice tea and watch some tennis.
Here's what I've accomplished this morning.

Can't have too many clamps and magnets.



All squared and tacked in place.
The top is designed so that it will be removable from the main body.

So it will have these major components: The chassis and all it components, the main body, and the top.
Because this is strictly a one man build, I had to plan on taking it apart at times,
to fabricate, and to paint and polish, etc. various things.



 
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I previously stated that the top would be removable.
Wellllll, maybe not. :unsure:

I went to sleep with this area, and these questions on my mind.

Starring Role - problem
:unsure: How was I going to make the circled area blend in with the top ?

Supporting cast - plotting
:unsure: How, will it be supported/attached ?
:unsure: Is there going to be an issue with shaping metal to fit ?
:unsure: Will I have to make the top an integral part of the lower body ?
:unsure: Should I make it a fabric top, and not metal, or wood ?
:unsure: What about wanting to lift the body off in the future ?
:unsure: Do I really need to ?
:unsure: Should I ?
:unsure: Will I be able to ?
:unsure: How to lift it off ?
:unsure: What will the weight and balance problem be ?
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

And action! .. 1st scene.
And this morning, first thing, ..... where did I place that roll of brown paper ?



I answered the 'shaping metal' question, pretty quick. It looks like the metal will form to the frame properly,
despite the Oops, re-fabricated corners.

As of this posting I still haven't solved most of these, and other related questions.

Need more coffee ☕ ..maybe another one ☕.

 
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When I was thinking of having the top removable, this is how I was thinking about putting the panels on.
I am having a difficult time, getting the curvature (blending) from side to top, to look right, (flow).
It just keeps looking 'wrong'. ???????



This morning after considering, making the top, part of the body, I came up with this.
I moved the panel from 'under' the pipe, to over the top.
Though it's not perfect yet, I think this may be the way to proceed.



I think the body lines flow, much better.
And it looks much closer to the drawing.



And for a different perspective, a look at the inside.



There are elements of this part of the build that haven't been revealed yet,
but they play a major role in the completed design.
Therefore, must be kept in mind when making any changes.

 
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I like it on top a lot more. The line flows better with the shape of the top now.
Yeah! I thinks so too.
And it will make the 'unrevealed' elements that are to come, much easier to build.

But before I make that final decision, I need to think real hard, about the ramifications,
of making the top part of the body.

Remember these questions ?

:unsure: What about wanting to lift the body off in the future ?
:unsure: Do I really need to ?
:unsure: Should I ?
:unsure: Will I be able to ?
:unsure: How to lift it off ?
:unsure: What will the weight and balance problem be ?
 
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Being so hot out, and truly not decided on how I want to proceed with the top,
I'm putting thoughts to paper or computer.

This is the 'unrevealed', thought for the top.
It's still a thought, and may not materialize.

The tan/beige area will actually be mesh screen.
There will be some more detailing to accent the whole top.

 
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Reworked the flame and added some pin-stripping.



At this point I'm planning on using all sheet metal on the top. Maybe 18-20 gauge.
First , I will cut out the flame, while the top is secured to the bows, thus maintaining the curvature.
Then I will remove the top, and weld on a sheet of perforated sheet metal, in the center.

The perforated sheet is really a design element, as well as a way to secure the flame, and it provides some ventilation from the Calif heat.
The center will be painted a tan color, closely matching the fabric, I have for the upholstery.
(These colors are only an example)

The candy red, against the tan, should really pop.
 
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Looking good there Ed' :D
Thanks Danny

I don't know if people realize how much this build means to me.

Though, it's not a 'real car', in the sense of having a gas engine, etc, or even in the world of 'bicycling', it is a 'real dream' coming true.
I've wanted to build a T Bucket hot rod, since high school, circa 1960-64.

It's not coming out as a true T bucket style, but it is, satisfying the dream,
A dream that's coming true, as a direct result of the efforts of Brad, and Kate, and the support from the AZ community.

OK, sorry about that, I was just feeling a bit sentimental.
 
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No worries Ed, understanding people do things is what makes it all the more interesting! Half of what I post on my build thread is what I'm thinking as much as it is what I'm doing. I think there needs to be more discussion of motivation and our emotional reasons for doing things. It's what engages an audience, tells a story, and draws them in. I much prefer it over just a "this is what I'm building" type of thread :)
 
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I don't know about you Ed', but I am grateful every day that I am still here to dream my dreams and make some of them come true.
 
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Angle grinding fish mouths takes me back a few years. The advice in the video about not thinning the leading edge is sound and something I learned the hard way. Here's something I fish-mouthed a few decades ago. Every fish mouth involved a lot of trial and error. Your first effort looks excellent.

 
Joined
Sep 12, 2012
Messages
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Location
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Angle grinding fish mouths takes me back a few years. The advice in the video about not thinning the leading edge is sound and something I learned the hard way. Here's something I fish-mouthed a few decades ago. Every fish mouth involved a lot of trial and error. Your first effort looks excellent.

Cool ! That's a lot of 'fishing'..or is it 'mouthing'..:)
 
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