Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

SirJoey

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My cozy little nook in the corner!
It's amazing what some folks can create with imagination,
persistence, determination, skill, & a little hard work! (y)
***
 
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Time Away.....Far Away!

We finally decided to get away for a few days. Drove 150 miles to a campground I found online.
We must have hit it just right. I thought there would be many more rigs there.
Except for what looked like long timers, we pretty much had the back side of the campgrounds to ourselves for two of our three nights.
Had a VERY relaxing time.

My 'better half'



My 'girls'



Saw a spare tire cover on a travel trailer ahead of us, that said; 'Past Tents'.
Which sorta sums up why the... 'home on wheels'.
This campground was sooo quiet, it was scary. A truly welcoming relief from the ordinary.

We did 'rough it' though. 😺
We cooked and ate outdoors, until the mosquitoes drove us back inside.
And this is a true wooded campground. There's no street light, every block, just total darkness, but for the occasional camper light.



Had time to put pencil to paper, with a couple of ideas.



Also drew up the frame work for the body.
It's light to see. I didn't anticipate sending it, as it's just a draft idea, of how things might go together.

 
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Decisions, Decisions

My two favorite styles.....BUT which one to build???? 🤔
I like them both equally.
I may end up building both, but that means I still have to decide,...which one first.

Added a bit of color to help with the decision

Possible fabric top, or may leave the top red.



Modified the top on this version



Get some inspiration here for the bodywork, no need for sheet metal...
https://www.core77.com/posts/18441/poor-mans-911-full-size-pedal-powered-porsche-model-18441
The referenced, looks like a lot more work than one may realize.

I'm really itching to work with metal, and this project will give me that opportunity.

I tried to spot weld, the perforated sheet metal I'm using for the engine block, but it's to thin.
I was able to do it in a couple of places, but mainly, it wasn't happening.

Thinking about 18 or 20 gauge, for the body panels. My Hobart welds down to 24 gauge.
Heavier, yes, but the end product, and the ease of many, many spot welds, will prove to be better...I hope.
Plus the experience, will be worth it.

If I choose the proper size motor and controller, and braking system, then all should be fine, for its intended use.
 
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SirJoey

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My cozy little nook in the corner!
Coincidentally, my family & I also got away this past Wednesday-Friday at a campground,
but since I no longer own a camper, we had to pop for the lodgings at the lodge.
Played mini-golf, & explored one of their local caves. Great fun! (y)

***
 
Joined
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Messages
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Coincidentally, my family & I also got away this past Wednesday-Friday at a campground,
but since I no longer own a camper, we had to pop for the lodgings at the lodge.
Played mini-golf, & explored one of their local caves. Great fun! (y)

***
The time went by a bit to quick for us. Maybe a four night stay next time.
This trip was all about, relaxing, not having to be anywhere, doing anything.
Just some quality time with each other, playing dice and card games, and just enjoying the outdoors, and piece and quiet.
 
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Axedale, Victoria, Australia
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axerail.coffeecup.com
I tried to spot weld, the perforated sheet metal I'm using for the engine block, but it's to thin.
I was able to do it in a couple of tries, but mainly, it wasn't happening.
There are quite a few DIY spot welder videos on YouTube and you can also find other info on http://www.homemadetools.net/
 
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There are quite a few DIY spot welder videos on YouTube and you can also find other info on http://www.homemadetools.net/
Thanks for the tip Kevin. I have seen the homemade tools site, and there are plenty of great ideas on there.

As far as 'spot welding', I'm pretty much up to speed on doing it.
That's how I know my welder, (even on a 24 setting) is still too much for the thin (perforated) metal used to make my engine block.

Today's progress

It's been well over a 100 degrees outside, and around 107 in my shop, so not much doing there.
Did some short yard chores, and soon got out of the heat.

Spent much of my time trying to decide which body style I want to go with first.

I have a projector that uses two, 200 watt bulbs, so tonight I projected both body styles on my garage door, at full size.
That really helped to make up my mind.

I have decided to go with the full body, as seen below.
The paint scheme has yet to be determined.



While adding color and light configuration, I thought I may do the whole rear panel in oak paneling.
It will tie in, with the wood cowl up front.

This version took awhile to complete, so thought I might as well use it to show what it might look like if all red.
The light shape and sizes are not set in stone. Will be looking to use LED's.
The small back panel will be removable, for access to the motor, batteries, etc.

As a matter of perspective, the top will be +/- 5 1/2 feet high.
The width of the body is +/- 3 feet.
Overall width w/tires is +/- 5 feet.

 
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And with a wood panel back, and flared sides.
Upper body will increase in width to, +/- 4 feet.

 
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Not wishing to appear picky but, the two white lights/reflectors between the wheels are at different heights. That could affect the roll centre and adversely affect the safety and handling? Maybe they have moved and need to be set in stone.

Seriously, it should be a wonder to behold. Great job.
 
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Not wishing to appear picky but, the two white lights/reflectors between the wheels are at different heights. That could affect the roll centre and adversely affect the safety and handling? Maybe they have moved and need to be set in stone.

Seriously, it should be a wonder to behold. Great job.
Really ? They look OK to me :D
 
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110 (F) 🔥in the shop yesterday.

Still, with two fans blowing, I got so engrossed in what I was doing, I didn't really notice.
This morning, much better. Started at 5:30 a.m. Much cooler.
Continued working on the mock up frame.



Moved a couple of tubes, trying to finalize the best position, and subsequent measurements.



Showing a different perspective. With the flared sides, there will be a bit more shoulder room.



Showing how I make my curved pieces, using my hot air gun and compressed air.
I heat the PVC until it, 'just releases', from its solid state. Careful not to over heat, and it becomes to soft.
I hold in the desired position and use compressed air, to blow on the outside, (and inside), to cool it pretty quick, back to its solid state.

Here, I'm using my 3/4" tube bender, to bend 1/2" PVC.
I started thinking I would use 1/2" EMT tubing, for the frame, but this 1/2" PVC (OD) is virtually the same as 3/4" EMT.
I will use this same bender to bend the metal tubing, when the time comes.

This mock up, is like putting together a puzzle.
Not only, am I putting together the puzzle, I'm actually making the puzzle as I go along.
But working it out this way, gives me insight as to the steps needed, to cut and weld it all together.

 
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From 'Mental' to 'Metal'

After cutting up 100 feet of PVC pipe, I have settled on this compromise body style.
Not exactly like the drawing, but close enough, and within my experience/capabilities.




I'm using 1x1 x .060 square tubing for this lower section, which will bolt to the main frame.
The complete body will be removable.



For the upper portion, (sides and top) where all the curving happens, I will be using 3/4" EMT tubing.



Bought all the square tubing this morning, @ $12.24 for 20 feet.
Also priced and looked at the 20 gauge sheet metal. Estimate around $33.00 for a 4x8 sheet.
I'm undecided on 18 or 20 gauge. Leaning toward 20, but will also consider 22 gauge.
I think 18 is stiffer than what I really need, and the 20 may be as well.

 
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Working at a comfortable pace...
…..we now have a base.




Next is to finish welding all joints, and make some tabs *, for bolting it to the chassis.
* Earthquake proof of course.

The base will slide back, about 2 inches, which will be it's final resting spot.
For perspective, the rectangular portion of the frame, measures 2' deep x 3 ' wide.

 
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you will need two more axle bearings to prevent the "VW" syndrome on the rear tires.
They will tend to tilt inward at the top. been there.
 
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