Loderunner 2 with under seat steering, one lever to 2 back brakes and suggestions

Joined
Mar 21, 2021
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5
Location
Chilliwack BC Canada
I am in the process of gathering metal parts and wheels etc etc, to build the Loderunner 2. I was wondering if any one has put the under seat steering on this trike? if so pictures please. Also was wondering if any one has put a lever connected to a equalizing brake system similar to a emergency brake on a car. That way I can have one lever on the say right side of the seat for the back brakes and one on the left handle bar for the front brake. I also wished there was a material list for the materials needed to build these bikes. It would help us to figure out what we need to buy. It would may nice to have suggestions on parts we might need too finish these, sizes lengths of cables etc etc.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2012
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1,343
Location
Wakefield, UK
For the brakes you can get dual pull levers.
These come in right and left hand versions to suit. Or if you prefer you can get a ready made equaliser to use your own choice of lever to pull two brakes.

I've used both and the dual pull lever is the superior system IMO.
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
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3,473
Location
Ravenshoe N. Queensland
For the brakes you can get dual pull levers.
These come in right and left hand versions to suit. Or if you prefer you can get a ready made equaliser to use your own choice of lever to pull two brakes.

I've used both and the dual pull lever is the superior system IMO.
Hi,
If its two discs it will work fine-- , but may not be so good with two rim calipers.
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Messages
10
Location
Great Mills, MD
I am in the process of gathering metal parts and wheels etc etc, to build the Loderunner 2. I was wondering if any one has put the under seat steering on this trike?
I don't know of anybody doing USS on a Loderunner 2. The Timberwolf and Aurora plans call for welding a shortened 4 inch fork stem to the bottom of the main tube for USS; the Loderunner 2's stiffening truss would interfere with this approach. IMHO Looking at Figure 191 of the Loderunner 2 plans, you'd have to move the crossover system and the take up pulley to make room for the USS. Also, given the stiffening truss is only 4 inches high you'd still have clearance issues. Maybe bumping the truss to 5 inches and/or cutting through the main beam like in the Deltawolf USS Mod Tutorial would help with the clearance. I think it's safe to say that there's a lot to be considered to make USS work on the Loderunner 2.
 
Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
3,473
Location
Ravenshoe N. Queensland
Hi,
Just getting my head into gear again, and this is without checking any drawings, relying on memory from a few years.
It may be possible to fit the pivot tube between the main beam and the truss, with a longer pivot bolt passing through the whole lot.
The steering head would be a custom made part, as normal bike bits won't fit. Having said that, I just had a vision (!) of using a rear axle as the pivot and a modified hub as the steering head---that might work if it fits.
Another approach would be to put the steering head on top, as "normal", and use custom bars, but the pivot point will probably be too far forward for comfortable steering.
No time to look at it right now, but will dive in later tonight to see what happens--still got most of my old drawings on the computer somewhere.
Have fun,
Steve G
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2012
Messages
1,343
Location
Wakefield, UK
I always take the "You can make anything fit anywhere if you drop it in from a big enough height or use a big enough hammer" approach to matters. You could mount it underneath the truss. It'd hang no lower than the derailleur there though chain routing would need to be considered to avoid the swing of the bars. If following the usual method of using a cut down head tube you only need 1.5" of outer tube to mount a handlebar to. You'd probably need to custom make the bar itself to find a comfortable hand position.

Alternatively you could make the section of truss under the seat a bolt on affair (use 2 bolts per end as that truss does an important job) to allow access to mount the pivot.

It's not just room for the actual steering tube assembly that's required but also enough room to actually get the outer tube over the fixed inner once that's welded in place that you need. You could recitify that requirement though by welding the inner steerer to a flat plate then bolting the entire ready built assembly to a matching plate on the main chassis tube. That way it would slide in, negating the need for enough room to assemble in in situ and also negating the need to have a removable section of the truss. The whole assembly need be only 3" tall so could slide in between truss and main beam. I don't know the exact amount of room there as I haven't got that particular plan but it'd be a simple matter to ensure there's enough room. Again as with any such change to the plan think of chain routing as you go. It's not a difficult task to do though as the chain will happily run just under the truss in that area.

 
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