My life with Python trikes Mk1 , Mk1.5 , Mk2 ?

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As you say hi or hello, then everything is fine.
They only have problems in Amsterdam with tourists and tgat is only because there are so many and walk on bike lanes and don't watch out.
 
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Feb 7, 2008
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So another Python failure looms it's ugly head ?

Well not really ;)

When the Python was first built I was in need of a quick mount for the computer and so a piece of softwood was pressed into service.



On seeing it the wife said ' it's a piece of wood ! ' no sh*t Sherlock ,with all that welding you can't have a piece of wood .....

So I painted it black and it was not commented on again :LOL:



In the intervening years a front light was added and a strap for lifting/manoeuvring was re-sited there making it somewhat busy [ and essential ! ]

So while away camping on the August B/H the speedo got hit whilst mounting/demounting and the wood was badly split.

Time the temporary bodge was re-engineered so I give you the metal wood replacement.




The wood is on the right , the steel will use the same bolt hole and has a cross piece [ a bit of handlebar ] so the speedo can be mounted as though it was on a normal bike [ no more wood screws (y) ] the strap can pass through the handle bar with some plug ends and a joint hidden in the middle.

All that is left is a mount for the cheap light shown in picture 2 , it needs to simply clip on for battery changing however it must not rattle or fall off :ROFLMAO:;)

ps really nice to get the welder out and do 8 small welds without having to regrind the tungsten tip and get the current settings right ...
 
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Ok so finally painted and fixed on the utility post :-



Front light seems soundly held however we won't find out till we have ventured out into the bad bad world.



Speedo mounted as it should be with a sliver of rubber and it's proper clamp so no more wood screws/cable ties or wobbling Hurrah you shout in unison....

If I were to do this again I would actually weld the red bit to the seat post stub making it a bit shorter and with no bolt needed saving some weight , however hurry I was in .....

Found I can just about manoeuvre Python by grabbing a pedal and turning till it is vertical , so strap not yet added , see how we go.

So was Python ready for duty over this winter after tyres blow up to correct pressure .......

Well actually NO as the left brake did not work as lever would not move at all ! and the right brake barely moved/worked.

Removed left brake cable to find over 6" rusty cable at both ends and rest of cable very black , this is since August bank holiday ? a mere 7 weeks ago ? does not bode well for lasting the winter does it.

I was going to add some of those V brake rubbers at the back
plate end with a little grease in them , however that does not solve the problem at the lever end ? any thoughts apart from deploying some Magura hydraulics I have lying around ?

Talking of levers I have had to ground the left lever out [ the right needs doing ] :-



Without out that piece being relived it was impossible to change the brake cable without taking the lever off , very poor design IMHO...

Still need to do right brake cable , seems I constantly need rear cables and outers and now have a stock pile of fronts that are little use to me at present :(
 
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South Benfleet, Essex, England, UK
I agree that the rubber boot "ought" to keep the water & dirt out at the hub end, but the water entry at the lever end (where it is pointing upwards like a collecting cup on a recumbent deployment) isn't what the designers envisaged I guess. Are you using older style metal ferrules on that end or the newer and tighter fitting plastic ones Paul?
 
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We buy 10 rear brake inners and 10 gear inners at a time and a reel of outer cable , best value for money.
regards Emma
Twinkle

Evilbay I assume ?
 
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I agree that the rubber boot "ought" to keep the water & dirt out at the hub end, but the water entry at the lever end (where it is pointing upwards like a collecting cup on a recumbent deployment) isn't what the designers envisaged I guess. Are you using older style metal ferrules on that end or the newer and tighter fitting plastic ones Paul?
The outer's already have one metal ferrule so that has to go at the lever end as I find they tend to bind in the adjusters if used at the hub end ?
 
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The outer's already have one metal ferrule so that has to go at the lever end as I find they tend to bind in the adjusters if used at the hub end ?
If you have enough spare/slack outer cable length and they are either 4mm or 5mm diameter outers cut all the ferrules off with a zip-disc. I will send you hard plastic replacements for you to try?
I think I have 50 of each here in the mess.
 
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If you have enough spare/slack outer cable length and they are either 4mm or 5mm diameter outers cut all the ferrules off with a zip-disc.
I already have some of the plastic ones which is how I found out they are better at the adjuster end.
I won't worry to much about the existing metal ferrule as currently the inners are not lasting long enough to see any rust on them !
 
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I already have some of the plastic ones which is how I found out they are better at the adjuster end.
I won't worry to much about the existing metal ferrule as currently the inners are not lasting long enough to see any rust on them !
My thought in replacing the metal ferrule was that its isn't as fine an "inner-cable" hole on them as on the plastic ones and just maybe they would seal better.
 
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