Swamp cooler install

Joined
Sep 12, 2012
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2,944
Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
With the temperatures hovering around 104 (F) lately, and a recent high in the shop of 111 (F), I was not getting much time in the shop.
Finally broke down and acquired a used cooler in great shape and inexpensive compared to a new one.

Finally got it installed yesterday. This took a bit longer as it is a two-man job. But all I had for help was me, myself, and I.
So a lot of thought went into how with a major emphasis on leverage.
Between the three of us ... (me) wasn't interested, and (myself) was pretty much useless, so (I) had to do most of the grunt work.

I will let the pictures tell the story.

Inspecting, cleaning, oiling, rust and calcium removal, painting/sealing, and changing to new pads.



Sprayed in one and a half cans of Flex Seal.



Measure twice or thrice and cut once.



My ground is very sandy and can shift easily.
And if it rains enough it will get soggy, so I braced the stand against the building.
I did a weight/strength test. I put my 216 pounds on it and said a prayer. 😰
And he lived to tell the (rest of the story), aka, Paul Harvey era.



Got the cooler back on my tailgate and moved it over to the pedestal table.
From there I used my shop ramps to slide the cooler back onto the truck but at a higher level.
Used my rope hoist to pull it up onto my truck.



Sorry forgot to get pictures of getting it up on the stand.
A water barrel will find its way underneath the cooler. I have no permanent water going to the building.
The barrel will resupply the water tray as the water is used/evaporates.
I will hose fill the barrel and tray prior to use.



Completed and cooling. I worked in my shop for 7 plus hours today, with an outside temperature
of around 95 (F). I placed the thermometer in the direct sun and it pegged at 120(F).
Inside it was a cool 80-82. Sounds warm but it was quite nice really.
I found that it took about four hours of steady run, on high cool, to use up the available water.
Therefore the need for a supplemental water source.



I will update when I get the supplemental water barrel installed.
I'm looking for a 55-gallon drum and will use this water pump.

This pump will replace the installed pump that comes with the cooler.
It will push the water up approximately 8 feet (11 feet capable) through the six distributor hoses
and drain back down through the overflow tube back into the barrel.
At least that is the theory. 🤓

More when I get a barrel.
 
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South Benfleet, Essex, England, UK
That's great Ed' smashing achievement and I bet it makes one heck of a difference. :)
 
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Washington state
my concern is moisture resulting in RUST
would have opted for a heat pump that mounts on the wall.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
my concern is moisture resulting in RUST
would have opted for a heat pump that mounts on the wall.
Could have done that. I installed a heat pump in my shop wall back in Vermont. Worked like a champ.

But the cost to do that for this application is not worth it, at this time. The WC was dirt cheap and costs little to run.
The only drawback at my place is the high cost of water.

The corrosion factor is negligible for the amount/time of humidity exposure.
The humidity outside here yesterday was in the 30% range while I was running the WC.
Critical % is around 45% for corrosion to begin. I had between 50%-60% while running the WC.
That diminished immediately when turned off.
A rainy day would be worse.

Final analysis, I can now work in my shop without getting a heat stroke, :D(y)👏
 
Joined
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2,944
Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
I put out a call for a donor drum and a nearby neighbor offered up these two.
A 30 gallon and a 55 gallon



I chose the 55 gallons because it worked best with the pump installation.



The top is molded in so access required a modification.
I used an old saucepan cover, (I don't throw out anything)




All hoses installed and pump waiting to go in.





All hooked up waiting for function testing tomorrow.

 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 12, 2012
Messages
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Apple Valley, California, USA
With a couple of modifications and some hot days (105 F) I have the cooler dialed in.
Had to invert the overflow tube and enlarge the drain tubing. The drain couldn't keep up with the inflow.

Today was @ 105 F in the shade and inside it was a cool 86 F. Sounds hot but felt cool.
Humidity was just above the normal range @ 52%. Outside humidity was 26% +/-.
Cost versus A/C is up for debate. With our exorbitant water rates,
it may be just as cheap to pay for the electricity for an air conditioner.
I'm using about 30 gallons running about 8-10 hours of work time.

I worked on the brake system most of the day.
Neither master cylinder was the same. I had to fabricate plunger actuators for both.
They aren't pretty, but that will have to wait until I know the system will work.
They are functioning as intended.
Full function testing with brake fluid will have to wait while I finish dialing in the gearing and chain tensions.


The new hoist is proving to be quite helpful.


A BMX rear footpeg serves well in this application.

 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
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Washington state
I purchased same master cylinder but only using two ports. I hopefully have a good sealing plug on the third port.
Waiting to have a hose made next time we head to town.
I like your setup but IMO use bearings to hold the actuator shaft. After awhile the shaft will be loose.
I am using a 1/2" shaft with bearings. Will post some pics after I get it all assembled again.
 
Joined
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Apple Valley, California, USA
I purchased same master cylinder but only using two ports. I hopefully have a good sealing plug on the third port.
Waiting to have a hose made next time we head to town.
I like your setup but IMO use bearings to hold the actuator shaft. After awhile the shaft will be loose.
I am using a 1/2" shaft with bearings. Will post some pics after I get it all assembled again.
Point taken
This car will be seldom driven, so I doubt there will be a wear issue anytime soon. The RPM/rotation is minimal in this instance, unlike the pillow block bearings needed for the power components. Those shaft collars are made with hardened steel, so should last quite some time. If not then your suggestion would be implemented.
Although you have reminded me that there remains one collar that needs to be welded in place.
The outer shaft, where it meets with the lever is just riding on the frame rail.

I'm also using only two ports. I bought bolts to match the threads and it has worked so far.
I would be interested in what type of hoses you are going to use. The ones that came with my set are so stiff that there is torsional stress just to get them to line up to connect.
 
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Washington state
am using the ones that came with the set.
The cart I am building will be used almost daily. It's my wife's "golf cart"
 
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Washington state
I require two hoses but only one that came with kit is long enough so have to have one made.
 
Joined
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Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
I require two hoses but only one that came with kit is long enough so have to have one made.
Yeah, I ran into the same problem. But I bought two kits because I wanted the smaller calipers for the front and the larger ones for the rear. So that gave me two of each.
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2012
Messages
2,944
Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
Update

The cooler has been working great. It has allowed me to work when I otherwise wouldn't.
Today is a real test. I just checked my thermometer at the cooler and it's reading 108 (F) in the shade.
It's 106(F) on our back patio. The shop is 84(F) and running on high to get that temperature.

Still can't get over how much water it uses.
I wonder if those that have a direct connection for their water have any idea, how much they are using?

A typical 5-6 hour daily use.
I've narrowed it down to +/- 30 gallons on high cool.
+/- 20 gallons if using low cool.
 
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