Definitely. Gonna give it a couple more weeks before I pull the trigger. Regardless so need to pick up at least one caliber for the back. Might as well order all of them at the same time if need be.
Warrior trike- 1st build
- Thread starter Ratisse
- Start date
Definitely. Gonna give it a couple more weeks before I pull the trigger. Regardless so need to pick up at least one caliber for the back. Might as well order all of them at the same time if need be.
Was doing a bit of research on combining different metal strips together. Ran into an in-depth 3 part article on battery building that has that info.
Consolidated them into a reference guide for later use.
https://www.docdroid.net/trLw6DN/battery-building-pt1-pdf
https://www.docdroid.net/29sNQIN/battery-building-pt2-pdf
Consolidated them into a reference guide for later use.
https://www.docdroid.net/trLw6DN/battery-building-pt1-pdf
https://www.docdroid.net/29sNQIN/battery-building-pt2-pdf
Ended up cutting off the previous dropouts.
After a bit of grinding, filing and sanding I'm about to weld the new ones on.
Trying a different approach before tack welding. Last time around I had to reposition a few times do to sticking the welding rod.
A couple drops of super glue.
After a bit of grinding, filing and sanding I'm about to weld the new ones on.
Trying a different approach before tack welding. Last time around I had to reposition a few times do to sticking the welding rod.
A couple drops of super glue.
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I've not seen superglue used as a tack before. I usually use one big (welded) tack which will take a bit of abuse should the fine adjustment hammer be required. One tack allows a lot more movement than several and a bit of thought as to where that tack should be to allow best movement usually pays dividends. There are times when you need to apply some weight to the joint though to see alignment and one tack may not do then.
Rock on. Yeah... I didn't want to tack weld with the rear wheel sitting in the dropouts.
Noticed when I measured that the previous wheel and the one I'm going to ride on have different axle diameteters and lengths.
Needed to improvise without potentially compromising the axle. Came up with that.
Edit...
That was my imagination. Popped the old rear on there and it was fine.
The super glue helped keep it in place while welding the exterior side of each drop out.
A bit of overkill? Maybe.
I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Testing the wheel alignment.
I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Testing the wheel alignment.
I finished a warrior a few months ago and i am about 3/4 of the way through a tomahawk, this time I made the gap for the tire at front 3.00" instead of what the plans said. I found out with the warrior, there was so little room that if i used a tire with almost any tred, it would rub. I didn't see any reason to have that gap so narrow and all it did was make lining it up a pain and limitedthe kind of tires i can use.
I feel you there. Noticed that with a regular mountain bike tire. Part of the reason I ended up ordering a small block tire.
Spaced when I ordered steel. Only picked up 24" sections. Design calls for the center boom to be 26".
I ordered my parts to all the right sizes with all the angles on it. It was just putting it togheter.
Rock on. That idea crossed my mind initially.
Decided I wanted to test myself as much as possible.
If I'd have built a lathe prior to this project, I'd have attempted to make the front hubs as well.
I feel ya there. Possibly do that for a future build.
Was going to be looking into padding the seat when I get to making it.
Forgot I had a gaming chair in my basement storage.
Seems a good candidate for being upcycled.
Forgot I had a gaming chair in my basement storage.
Seems a good candidate for being upcycled.
Center/rear boom connection is 9-3/4" from the ground.
Front boom is 17-1/2" from the ground.
Rear fork must have shifted while setting up or welding. Has a downward slant 3 degrees on the drive side.
Front boom is 17-1/2" from the ground.
Rear fork must have shifted while setting up or welding. Has a downward slant 3 degrees on the drive side.
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Misalignment happens. If it's large you can 3/4 slice the relevant tube, twist and reweld. If it's small I've "adjusted" it with a vice and large pipe wrench around the relevant section. The main thing is the wheels point correctly. If the steelwork has to be manipulated to achieve that then it's rarely a major problem.
I get that. Was thinking about it after taking a nap. Figured my misalignment issue was due to the drop outs.
They might be slightly different heights so things were thrown off when I popped the frame in my bench vice to use as a third hand.
Decided to take it apart and pulled out some blue layout fluid to get as precise as possible.
Currently filing down the tube ends. Afterwards I'm going to do the same with the drop outs.